This past week, we watched the documentary “All In This Tea”, which follows David Lee Hoffman as he travels China’s tea producing provinces in search of fine tea. You can view “All in This Tea” online via Amazon.
I was impressed by the extent of the miscommunication between Hoffman and the industrial tea growers and exporters in China, especially considering he seemed more than willing to pay above market price to farmers for teas he selected. Finding quality tea was less a problem than convincing local authorities to allow him to purchase his selections direct from the farmers for export.
One of the major themes of the film involves Hoffman trying to convince Chinese tea manufacturers that production methods matter and that higher yield through use of modern fertilizers and insecticides have draw backs. The movie was filmed in 1997, so I am hopeful that getting truly wonderful organically produced teas exported from China is easier today than it was during the making of the film.
There is also great footage of tea being picked, and then transformed through oxidization, firing, and/or fermentation. The level of expertise to create truly great tea was made very clear. This would definitely be worth an entire documentary unto itself.
There were a few other elements of the film I also quite enjoyed. The film showed off Hoffman’s huge collection of Pu-Er teas, which come in amazing varieties. He has a huge aging cave dedicated to these bricks of tea.
On a completely different note, I found it fascinating to listen to the flamboyant James Norwood Pratt, having only read his books. He waxed eloquent about the joys of fine tea at a filmed tea class, and I could definitely see his ties to wine tastings I have endured.
Finally, one other highlight of the film is the discussion of Robert Fortune’s exploits in China. He smuggled tea plants and growing technology out of China in 1843 to feed the growing British demand for tea through upstart Indian plantations. The documentary includes footage of the areas Fortune explored, and also some intriguing photos of Fortune traveling in traditional Chinese clothing and in a sedan chair.
While not a transcendental film, All In This Tea is definitely worth viewing by anyone who enjoys tea. Besides a documentary about the process of creating tea, I’m also ready to watch an entire documentary about Winnie Yu of Teance, who contributed some of the most enjoyable explanations of the appeal of tea.
IMDb entry http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1015968/
This movie can be purchased from Amazon.com: All In This Tea
OR
Viewed online at Amazon.com for $1.99 (pretty cool!): All In This Tea